The SULA LABS Report x Spate
Authors: AJ Addae, Addison Cain (Spate), Kahina Jean-Baptiste, Poornima Dorairaj
Abstract
It’s officially the end of May, and we are bursting at the seams with excitement for this installment of The SULA LABS Report, in collaboration with skincare data intelligence agency Spate. In this issue, you’ll find statistics sprinkled in from our friends at Spate on SEO-informed trends based on Google searches. Thank you to Yarden Horowitz and Addison Cain from Spate for your wonderful collaboration!
On our end, we’ve seen two products from our lab enter the world:
Anuli Skin Daily Supplement Serum ($165)
Clinically tested with darker skinned participants (HRIPT test)
Consumer panel approved, with darker skinned participants
Of Other Worlds Light Beams Barrier Treatment ($68) — coming June!
Sephora Accelerate class of 2023
We’re super excited for you all to check out what we’ve been contributing to — especially with some more summer and fall launches on the way, along with some exciting research studies we are conducting in our lab.
This month, we’re examining some SEO-informed consumer trends that determine where the skincare market is currently at, we delve into copper peptides, and finish off with our founder’s corner with recommendations on suppliers and raw materials.
Cash Flow
Our friends over at Spate summarized some of the top benefits searched alongside skincare products over the month of April 2023.
The top skincare benefits searched in April, by increase (aka benefits driving the most significant positive change in search volume)
“Dewy”:
This word has 35.9K average monthly searches
This word has a +16.6K increase in average monthly searches when compared to last year
This word has a +85.7% year-over-year increase in searches when compared to last year
“Hydration”:
This word has 73.0K average monthly searches
This word has a +3.7K increase in average monthly searches when compared to last year
This word has a +5.3% year-over-year increase in searches when compared to last year
The top skincare benefits searched in April, by growth (aka benefits driving the most significant positive growth, though they may be smaller in volume overall)
“Protective”:
This word has 2.4K avg monthly searches
This word has a +1.2K increase in average monthly searches when compared to last year
This word has a +96.3% year-over-year increase in searches when compared to last year
“Dewy” (again!)
This word has a +85.7% year-over-year increase in searches when compared to last year
“Color Correcting”:
This word has 2.4K avg monthly searches
This word has a +1.1K increase in avg monthly searches as compared to last year
This word has a +79.1% year over year increase in searches when compared to last year
While the results are pretty on brand with the current state of skincare, they indicate that protective, reparative, and restorative products are what consumers are still wanting more of, even three years after the beginning of the barrier repair movement — one of which journalist Kirbie Johnson astutely claims to be sparked by the anxious state of the pandemic. At SULA LABS, 64% of our products are developed with the aim to have an anti-inflammatory benefit — which aligns with the increasing the rise of barrier-centered skincare lines, such as Futurewise (2021), and Byoma (2022). In fact, the sentiment has even bled into celebrity skincare lines, such as Rhode (2022). It is also no coincidence that the searched benefits of “color-correction”, “dewy”, and “hydration” are the very benefits delivered in result of barrier reparative products.
While language around barrier repair tends to be written off as “trendy”, this data in correspondence with our product development data go to show that the market is responding by saying that reparative language - at all demographic levels - is here to stay, for a long, long time to come.
Product Radar
Trending Ingredient to Watch: Copper Peptides
According to Google Trends, there were 9.1K searches for copper peptides with the total searches for it being up 104% within the past year. Consumers are Google searching questions such as “What can you not mix with copper peptides?”, “Will copper peptides break me out?”, “Are copper peptides good for rosacea?”, with the top search being “What are copper peptides?”
Copper peptides are part of the peptide (aka protein) family - which are chains of amino acids. When used topically (especially when bioavailable), peptides can contribute to upholstering the dermal-epidermal junction, which is integral to your skin’s structural integrity. As expected, production of peptides slows down as we age. The copper peptide structure consists of a peptide (GHK) bound to a copper enzyme (Cu), to produce a copper peptide (also known as GHK-Cu). Copper peptides specifically have been demonstrated to accelerate wound healing, and promote collagen and elastin production, which help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Copper itself contains anti-inflammatory properties that help with wound healing - commonly seen in skin that suffers from acne, redness, and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Figure 1. Diagram of the copper (tri)peptide — a chain of three amino acids — lysine, hisitidyl, and glycyl bound to copper
Here are the top brands consumers are searching with “copper peptides” according to Google Trends:
The Ordinary “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% - An advantage age-supporting water based serum with antioxidant support. Targets signs of aging and crow’s feet. Suited to all skin types.
Spate data: This product has seen a +38.0% year-over-year growth in interest (Source: US Search ending April 2023)
Medik8 Copper PCA Peptides - A revolutionary antioxidant serum expertly formulated to recharge and energize skin for next-generation anti-aging results.
Packaging Technology:
This serum is packaged in a dual-chamber pump to maximize stability and potency, ensuring the actives continue to work when they are applied to the skin.
Good Molecules Super Peptide Serum - Target multiple signs of aging at once. This specially formulated blend of peptides and copper tripeptides helps to hydrate, brighten, and smooth for healthy, youthful-looking glow.
The Current State of Suncare
According to Spate's Annual Sun Care & Tanning Trends Report, mineral sunscreen is one of the sunscreen types driving the most significant positive change in average monthly search volume this year as compared to last year. That's an increase of +6.2K searches on average each month (Source: US Search, ending March 2023)
Growing interest in tinted sunscreen with an increase of +6.3K average monthly searches as compared to last year shows how consumers are seeking tinted formulas that may help mask the white cast some formulations — mineral in particular — can leave behind. We’re rounding off the Product Report with several suncare launches that have made headlines lately:
Recent Suncare Launches
Kosas DreamBeam Silicone-Free Mineral Sunscreen SPF 40 with Ceramides and Peptides ($40) (very popular right now!)
Studies:
Clinically proven to visibly improve (*based on corneometer measurement*, cutometer measurement** and visual grading*** of 33 men and women 18-80 y.o. After using DreamBeam for 28 days):
moisturization +144%*
firmness +21% and skin elasticity +17%**
skin clarity +70%***
skin quality +65%***
OleHenriksen Banana Bright Mineral SPF 30 ($35) - A 100% mineral sunscreen, with enhanced vitamin C and 16.3% zinc oxide, that protects skin against UVA and UVB rays, and corrects and prevents visible signs of sun damage, including dark spots, fine lines and wrinkles.
Studies:
4 week clinical study on 37 people:
26% agreed it brightened their skin.
95% agree it improves the look of makeup.
92% agree it blends effortlessly into skin.
Hero Cosmetics Superbeam Sunscreen ($20) - Helps protect against UVA/UVB rays without clogging pores via 17.53% Zinc Oxide. It’s a lightweight formula that leaves skin feeling moisturized (not sticky or greasy).
Founder’s Corner
This month, we are delivering three lower-cost accessible suppliers, along with ingredients (a bioavailable peptide, and an multifunctional acid) that can be used when developing a product at SULA LABS:
Three Lower-cost, Accessible Suppliers
Jedwards International — You know her, you love her - a trusted icon in the botanical raw material space. We love Jedwards because they offer a choice to purchase directly off the website.